Each player in turn, beginning on the dealer's left, places any bet up to the limit, and names 'red' or 'black.' The dealer gives the player five cards face up. If three or more are of the color named, the dealer pays the bet; if three or more are of the opposite color, the dealer collects the bet.
Contributed by Kishor N. Gordhandas
Players
For a good, balanced game there should be four players. Each plays for himself.
Cards
A total of 72 cards are required consisting of eight cards of each number from one (ace) to nine, of which four are red and four are black. This pack can be made from two standard 52-card packs by omitting all the tens and picture cards.
You may prefer to have a pack in which all the black cards and all the red cards of each number are identical: in that case you need four standard packs, and you use just 18 cards from each - the ace tpo 9 of one black and one red suit, for example hearts and spades.

Object of the Game
The aim is to collect two matched sequences scoring as high as possible, and having done so to close the game before anyone else is able to do so. Matched sequences are described below.
Scores are calculated at the end of each hand and should be entered on a piece of paper. The highest achievable score in any particular deal is be 243. This is rather rare. The highest possible score a non-winning player can make is 56. The lowest possible score a winning hand can make is 21.
A Game consists of eight deals and lasts about eighty minutes, after which the player with the highest total score wins. Alternatively, the game can be played until one or more players has scored 300 or more points.
The Deal
Each player is given 14 cards, one to each player at a time, face down. The first dealer may be decided in any way and the deal rotates clockwise. The 57th card is kept face up and placed beside the remaining 15 cards of the pack, which are stacked face down on the table to form the stock. This face up card starts the discard tile.
Matched Sequences
During the play, each player tries to arrange his cards into the matched sequences of seven cards. There are two types of matched sequence: ascending and descending.
An ascending matched sequence consists of an ascending sequence of four cards of consecutive ranks plus a descending sequence of four consecutive ranks, the highest card being common to both. For example 3-4-5-6-5-4-3 or 6-7-8-9-8-7-6.

A descending matched sequence consists of a descending sequence of four cards of consecutive ranks plus an ascending sequence of four consecutive ranks, the lowest card being common to both. For example 8-7-6-5-6-7-8 or 4-3-2-1-2-3-4.
A matched sequence can be made either in a single colour (red or black) or with mixed colours.
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The Play
The player to the left of the dealer plays first and the turn to play passes continuously to the left (clockwise). On his turn, each player must first draw the top card from either the stock pile or the discard pile and then discard one card from his hand face up on the discard pile.
A player who by drawing a card manages to complete two matched 7-card sequences in his hand, discards his unwanted 15th card and shows his two sequences to the rest of the players, and thereby wins the deal. This ends the play.
When the 15th and last card of the stock is drawn, the whole discard pile is turned over, without shuffling it, to form a new 15-card stock pile, and the player who drew the last stock card begins a new face up pile with his discard. This ends the first round. The play continues as before, but reduced scores for winning in the second round apply from now on.
If the stock pile is exhausted a second time, there is no third round. When the player who took the last card of the second stock pile has discarded, without declaring a win, the next player in turn has the option to take this discard or declare the play ended. If he takes the discard, but does not win, then after he completes his turn by discarding the next player in turn has the same options. This can continue until it comes to the turn of the player who took the last card of the second stock: this player cannot play again, but the play must end.
There is always more chance of the game being completed in the second round than in the first round, and more often than not, the game does get completed (either in the first or in the second round.)
Scoring
When the play ends, all players compute their scores, as follows.
- For non-winning hands only
- For a matched sequence of a single colour (red or black): 10 points
- For a matched sequence of mixed colours: 5 points
- For winning hands only
- For winning the hand in the first round (which ends with the turn in which the discard pile is turned down to make a new stock): 25 points
- For winning the hand in the second round (which begins with the turn after the discard pile was turned down): 15 points
- If all 14 cards in both matched sequences are the same colour: 10 extra points
- If both matched sequences consist of the same sets of numbers: 10 extra points
- For all hands
- For each ascending matched sequence: twice the value of the lowest card in the sequence
- For each descending matched sequence: twice the value of the highest card in the sequence
- For all hands
- For hands containing two descending sequences multiply the whole score for the hand by 3.
- For hands containing just one descending sequence multiply the whole score for the hand by 2.
There are no minus points for any cards that remain in the hands of the non-winning players, who are not able to make one or both the required matched sequences.
Examples of Scoring
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- Non-winning player holding no matched sequence:
- 0 points
- Non-winning player holding one ascending matched sequence 3-4-5-6-5-4-3 in mixed colours:
- 5 + 2*3 = 11 points
- Non-winning player holding one descending matched sequence 5-4-3-2-3-4-5 in a single colour:
- (10 + 2*5) * 2 = 40 points
- Player wins in second round holding 4-5-6-7-6-5-4, 8-7-6-5-6-7-8 with mixed colours
- (15 + 2*4 + 2*8) * 2 = 78 points
- Player wins from first stock holding 7-6-5-4-5-6-7, 7-6-5-4-5-6-7 with mixed colours
- (25 + 10 + 2*7 + 2*7) * 3 = 126 points
- Player wins from second stock holding 2-3-4-5-4-3-2, 4-5-6-7-6-5-4 with all cards black
- 15 + 10 + 2*2 + 2*4 = 37 points
What’s the best red & black roulette system? First let’s look at the odds. The roulette odds for colors are 1 to 1 (excluding zero). Can you win at roulette with a roulette system that uses only red and black bets? To my knowledge, there is only one way and it is only possible in very rare circumstances. Additionally, it requires predictive electronics. But that is beyond the scope of this article. This article focus on a Roulette red / black strategy that is better suited to the average player. If you are looking for a roulette system that already wins, without the need for further research or development, see www.roulettephysics.com. But before betting with this strategy, learn why most players lose and learn what happens when you use a roulette betting progression.
Win roulette with red black bets
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Before I continue, understand that I am in no way presenting a red black system that will win in the long-term. And statistically, 100 players using the exact same system will on average lose. So this is not a professional roulette system, but it is fun to play and usually achieves good results in the short term.
The system is simply start by betting one chip. If you lose, increase your bet size by one chip. If you win, decrease your bet size by one chip.

So it’s a very basic progression but is very easy to apply. When I first started out at roulette, I almost always used a simple system such as this to pay for dinner.
Continue play such as this eventually blows the bankroll because you’re progression gets so large that a single loss can be devastating. Theoretically, without any table betting limits, your betting progression could go forever. But in reality there are betting limits, and you don’t have an unlimited supply of money. Nevertheless, red and black betting systems are a great way to stay at the table for extended periods.
The best red black betting strategy
Very rarely will I ever bet on red or black, and if I do it is with the understanding that the casino has the long-term edge. But you may recall a while back I did precognition testing. Precognition involves basically psychic predictions to determine whether or red or black will spin next. The precognition trials we did involved exact number bets rather than colours, which is perhaps inappropriate considering other precognition trials indicate colour predictions tend to be more accurate.
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Do I believe in precognition? Well I don’t have irrefutable proof that it exists, but I believe I have experienced enough to believe that it is real.
You can make up your own mind. Below is a strategy involving red and black bets that tends to work well with precognition, at least according to trials I have done.
Firstly, understand that psychic phenomena involves living energy. Putting to more understandable context, it is much easier for someone to remember something that is attached to emotion or life. For example, it is very easy to remember a face, but not so much a name. A name is somewhat arbitrary. It is just a bunch of letters. But there is a stronger relationship to a person’s face, so it is easier to recognise and remember.
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If the same kind of case when it comes to precognition in roulette, where predicting a number such as 32 is kind of arbitrary. And besides 32 is quite similar to 22. But something such as the colour is more organic and specific. As is the green zero.
I can’t say I’ve ever achieved long-term winnings with precognition, but I do believe it has great potential for beating roulette than any other technology in existence, including roulette computers.
The two precognition approaches
I believe everyone has at least a latent ability for precognition, but of course like any skill or ability, it can be developed. The two methods I suggest are assuming that precognition is real, and once again you can decide for yourself if it is not.
Method 1: Yes or no
Whenever we make a decision, I believe we all have a gut feeling in our solar plexus that tells us whether we feel good or bad about the decision. So when you place a bet on red, you will either feel good or bad about the decision. If the feeling is positive, keep your bet on red. If it is negative, move your back to black. Obviously you will look a bit silly and indecisive at the table, but this is by far the most successful method at precognition, at least from my experience.
Method 2: Red or black.
I have had very little to no success at trying to guess whether red or black will spin next. This is not to say that you won’t have any success.
You probably arrived here expecting to find something different, but my experience with roulette has taught me you can’t win with red or black bets, or any bet for that matter, unless you first increase the accuracy of your predictions. No betting progression will change this fact. And because red and black alternate each pocket, perhaps the only universal winning red and black system involves the use of precognition. But in my experience, it is absolutely essential that there be a living element to the prediction process. It is not as simple as just predicting an arbitrary number. It’s like seeing a 10 digit number, then one year later being asked if you had seen a number before. You simply wouldn’t have an idea unless you have perfect memory. But if you are shown a picture of something and a year later were shown it again, you would be able to recognize it as something you have seen before.
The best red / black system for most people
If precognition is not something you want to try, then the best red & black roulette system for you will probably be a basic progression system. Simply if you lose, increase your bet by one unit. If you win, reduce your bet by one unit. To prevent your bets becoming too large, reset your bet to 1 unit when you have significantly increased your bankroll. You can reset when you are up by one unit, or aim for a larger profit. The more aggressive your progression, the greater the risk of quickly losing your bankroll.
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At least this is a simple strategy that anyone can learn and use, and it keeps you at the table for a long time.